Sofa tables are highly sought after items, but often aren’t the right height, width or length that you need. So, why not make your own? In this post, I’m going to make a sofa table/entrance way table that is both rustic and chic and can be customized to the exact measurements you need. The galvanized nipple pipes were the cheapest on Amazon.com even with the shipping. I saved about $100 in pipes and accessories by shopping around. The wood was purchased at a lumber yard down the road but you could easily use scrap barn wood, or any other wood of your choice and treat the surface to match the other items in your home. The most time was spent prepping the wood to match my home. The actual construction of the table flew by and was super easy.
This post was featured on Ryobi’s How-to site. See here for the posting: https://www.ryobitools.com/nation/how-tos/entrytable
Time to complete: 4 hours with staining and drying of wood stain and polyurethane, 1 hour of labor.
(1) Ryobi Sliding Miter saw
(1) Ryobi 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Drill
(1) Ryobi wood drill bit
(1) Ryobi Phillips head screw driver attachment
(1) Oak board 2”x10”x8’ cut into 2 pieces each 2”x10”x4’
(1) Can of Wood stain
(1) Can of clear semi-gloss Polyurethane
(1) Paint brush
(4) 10”x3/4” Galvanized nipple pipe
(4) 18”x 3/4” Galvanized nipple pipe
(16) 3/4” Galvanized flanges
(48) #12 1 ¼” wood screws
I bought oak from a lumber yard down the road and cut it in half with the Ryobi sliding miter saw. Once the 8’ wood was cut into two 4’ boards, I hand sanded each piece, which can be done with a Ryobi hand sander or with sand paper by hand.
I chose to stain my wood a dark walnut to match the wood in my living room, but any stain will work. Apply one coat with a brush and wipe the excess off with a rag. Stain all sides of the wood.
The next step is to polyurethane the top surface of the wood. I only apply this clear gloss to the sides that will be facing out and up. I love the personality that knots bring to the wood, so I usually choose the knotty side to face up. Apply 2-3 coats of polyurethane to the wood. Let dry for an hour or two until the surface isn’t sticky. The wood prepping is now over.
We will begin the construction of the sofa table from the bottom and work our way up. Screw together the flanges to both sides of the 10” nipple pipe. With both screwed tight, place the bottom shelf on its back with the under side facing up. Stack the legs on all four corners flush with the edges and mark holes within each of the flange holes to pinpoint where to drill a hole.
Drill holes in all four corners.
Place the leg on top of the drilled hole and now screw the wood screws into the holes.
With the bottom shelf done, flip the shelf over so its standing upright and repeat the same process now with the 18” nipple pipes standing on top of the polyurethane surface of the bottom shelf.
The last step is to slip the entire table over with the top shelf on its back to screw the 18” nipple pipes in to the top board.
If the legs appear to be crooked here is the trick (and you’ll need two people for this one step only). One person needs to hold the pipe down to the corner flush with the edges. Contrary to the other steps, drill the hole through the flange this time and immediately follow this with screwing in the first screw. Drill and screw one hole at a time. This holds the entire flange down enough to drill holes and screw the other screws in without straining to hold it down.
Repeat with all four corners. AND you’re done! Doll up your table with some trinkets and enjoy the entrance way/sofa table customized for your home.
I know each of you have seen the blow up on Pinterest and Etsy of home decor and accessories with states like Texas and Georgia. With our recent move to Texas, I wanted to create something for both South Carolina and Texas and thought oh what the heck I’ll make something (don’t get me wrong…I have bought little state necklaces too.)
In this post I will show you how I made some state themed wall decor, perfect for our new home in Texas.
Time to complete: 1 hour
(1) piece of wood per state
(50) nails per state
(1) packet of 3 yards of thread per state
Print off pictures of the state you are going to make. Cut out the picture and make sure it fits within the wood you have cut.
Begin to hammer nails all around the outline of the state.
Once finished with the outline, you can add a heart where you lived, but this is just an added bonus. You know, after seeing the way it looked with just the nails, I really liked the rustic look with the shiny nails and debated stopping.
Start winding the thread all around the state by tying one end of the thread around one of the nails. Te key here is to not cross the string through the heart so that the heart is left open and noticeable. AND you are done. Here are my finished products. Super easy and will make a great piece hung on the wall or propped up on my buffet!
Over the last year, I’ve had a minor obsession with my new monogram….okay doesn’t everyone right?! In every store I look for “s” and how I could incorporate them in my house. In this post, I made some wall decor that is both unique and rustic and OF COURSE is my new monogram. Needless to say it was the perfect touch for my living room.
With the 4th of July just passing, I frantically realized I didn’t have a flag up at my house. So, I made due with the materials I had in my house…and I think it was a wonderful attempt to be patriotic and original. See below for a how-to:
- Red, blue and white paint
- Paint brush
- Spray paint clear varnish
- Thicker molding wire
- Burlap ribbon
- Hot glue gun
- Cotton stuffing
- Cut the burlap out in a wavy shape 2 identical times, like as if the “flag” was flowing in the wind. This is so that the burlap can be stuffed. Also, cut out 2 identical stars.
- Paint the entire surface of the flowing flag white. You will only be painting the front side. Paint the entire surface of the star blue…again you are only painting one side blue.
- For the flag, paint red swirls all over it…I added occasional red dots too. For the star, I painted white polka dots all over it.
- Hot glue 3 of the 4 sides together for the flag. For the star, hot glue all of the sides together except for one of the points…these left open areas are where you will stuff it.
- Stuff the flag and star with cotton until it has a shape. Do not overstuff.
- Glue the remaining side of the star and flag together.
- Next you hot glue the start to the top left corner of the flag.
- I cut the wire so that it could be the “hanger”. When puncturing the burlap, I then molded the wire to curl on either side.
- I added a burlap bow from ribbon at the top for looks…its not necessary.
- Lastly, I sprayed the front and back side of the flag and star with the clear spray paint varnish to keep it protected from rain and to harden the surface.
Hello! HUGE apologies for my absence over this summer. No worries, I’ve been crafting daily, but my Instagram has been my DIY diary rather than here. My newest obsession (or one of them at least) has been chalk painting. I took a class to learn techniques and about how you can use the paint… Which by the way you can literally paint anything with chalk paint. Your rug?? Yes. Your drapes, yes! Your lamp shades? YES! So needless to say I am converted and have slowly been painting everything!!! Below are some of the latest projects
|Complete dining room chair set|
The chairs were my first babies, and after seeing their transformation I had to keep painting. I highly encourage everyone to look into the paint. It’s ease of use is what makes it soo attractive. Below are the basic steps in case you’re interested and there are tons of tutorials on YouTube, too!
- Do not sand the furniture. Simply dust or clean it.
- No primer needed. Paint your first coat covering the surface thoroughly. If you want to be able the distress the furniture so that one color shows through when you sand, you will need to paint two coats of the base coat in the first color and another coat of the second color on top.
- Once you have fully covered the surface in 2 coats ( 3 coats total if using 2 colors), lightly sand the entire surface with 320 grit sandpaper (stop when the surface is smooth). For a distressed look, start by rubbing the corners until the wood or first color show through. Remember, LESS IS MORE HERE! Once the edges are distressed, sand away one or two bigger areas on the entire pieces. For example, on the dresser I distressed, I have one larger area on the drawers and then one on the side. Try to distress where you think will naturally distress with time.
- The last step is to wax the nature piece. I highly recommend Annie Sloan clear wax. Once applied, remove with an old t-shirt (NO PAPER TOWELS!)
- Let the piece dry for 48 solid hours before placing items on top of it!
In my last post I mentioned the finds my dad found for me at a yard sale. One of his finds were two lamps. Totally outdated and ugly but cheap! Here’s what I did…
- Painted the bottom a color I liked… I used chalk paint. With two coats and a coat of wax, I was good to go there.
- Next I stalked etsy for a cool metal cage to cover the bulb. I found the perfect cage at Store19.
- I got a light bulb from Home Depot to complete the look.
Yard saling and thrift store shopping are two of my favorite things. I even have my parents constantly looking for things I can paint and transform which is awesome. Nothing better than a phone call with my dad saying he found two lamps and a tv stand for me all for $10! Heck yeah!! In this post I’ll show you a project that I made out of those items dad found. Super easy and like I said, $10. Who can beat that?!?
First item was a tv stand. When I saw this, I knew the top HAD TO GO or at least be recovered. I had bought some gingham fabric for another project and had just enough to recover it. I LOVED the wheels and cart underneath and didn’t want to touch that. Here’s what I did…
- Staple-gunned the fabric to the top.
- Used upholstery tacs for the top edge to add some bling.
Hi everyone! I am so excited to write this post as I’m FINALLY going to post about a project I’ve had in the back of my mind for MONTHS. This was probably the easiest/cheapest project I’ve done so far, but turned out to be one of my favorite. Many of you have probably seen a deer antler chandelier or one made of coral (I’ve seen AND drooled over both). Well I love the look of those chandeliers but wanted to create something that 1) I could ACTUALLY make and 2) wouldn’t take years of collecting deer antlers to make. SO, in this post I’ll tell you how I made my VERY own branch chandelier. And yes, I’m in love with it!
|Completed branch chandelier|
1. Sticks (thankfully my neighbors cut down some trees so I just snipped about 50 branches from their tree)
2. White stray paint (silver or gold)
3. Molding wire
4. Hot glue gun
I’m a thrifter…whether in Target or a Goodwill, I’m always looking at how I can take something and turn it into something else (yes I recognize it’s a personal problem). While at a local thrift store I found this little chandelier for $10 and couldnt pass it up. I snatched it up before I even had the idea of creating a chadelier, then let me little brain do all the work.
|Local thrift shop find= $10|
Like I said earlier, my neighbors had recently cut down a few trees so I just cut a bunch of branches from their trees. The first step is to start placing all of the branches starting from the center out and attaching to the chandelier using molding wire.
Once you have wired a good number of branches into the chandelier (like pictured above), start hot gluing the end of the branches into the chandelier. Also, as a helpful hint, I think its easier to see the progress once you have spray painted the chandelier. So I spray painted the newly added branches every so often.
Continue wedging/gluing/shaping up the chandelier until you have the outcome that you want.
This could also be either dusted with gold/silver spray paint to give it a sheen or painted solid silver/gold…both would also look awesome.
AND here is my final project. I LOVE LOVE LOVE IT! It’s perfect for a breakfast nook, an office, bedroom or dining room.
|This chandelier required 40W bulbs found at Home Depot|
Happy DIYing everyone!
I have been searching for a corner bookcase for a few months now. With no luck, I decided to make something myself. I’ve always loved the look of old wooden crates, but after seeing the price of just one (around $50-$80), I thought I would try making new wooden crates look old by staining. While it’s no perfect match, I still think the bookcase turned out perfectly. Here’s what you need:
Materials (from Michaels and Home Depot):
- Qty. 20 screws and nuts (1/4″-20 x3/4″)
- Qty. 20 flat washers (1/4″)
- 4 wheels –Industrial wheels would look awesome, but mine were from Home Depot. Make sure two are lockable.
- 5 Wood crates (from Michaels…use your 50% off coupon)
- Wood stain
- Hand sander
I started by sanding each of the wood crates (inside and out).
Next, I stained each of them. In an earlier post I mentioned that the longer the stain stays on the wood, the darker it is. These crates SOAKED up the stain so I literally was brushing the stain on and within seconds rubbing the remainder of the stain off with a rag. Let each crate dry for about 4 hours.
The next step is the add the wheels to the bottom crate. Position the two lockable wheels to the back. drill a hole where the screws will be placed and then screw in all of the wheels.
Here is what the bottom crate looks like with all of the wheels in place.
Now the work is over. I literally just stacked the other crates on top of each other, but for more protection, you could screw each of the crates together! The hardest part of the entire project was finding cute decorative items to fill up the bookcase, besides books (because who has enough books to fill up 5 levels!!) I found some of my decorative items at Target (which has AWESOME items right now)…and others at local antique shops.
Here’s my final project…for now atleast! I’m sure I’ll continue to rearrange the items and add and remove some things. The best part…the total cost was right at $40 (using the 50% coupon at Michael’s REALLY helps).
Yes, I’m ACTUALLY going to post about this..sounds simple enough…and it is! But here is what you will need to create your own shabby/chic monogram.
List of materials from Michael’s craft store:
- Wood monogram (mine is 12 inches tall)
- Hot glue gun
- Burlap or other fabric for the flowers
- Picture frame brackets (in case you want to hang)
Start by wrapping the rope around the top of the letter in a vertical matter. On any of the corners, leave spaces so that the majority of what you wrap is either vertical or horizontal, you will fill in the gaps with spare robe after wrapping it. As a general rule, only glue where you feel like it might slip if you don’t.
Now you will begin to fill in the gaps. Leave a line of hot glue and fill with lines of rope, one at a time.
Glue piece by piece until the entire thing is covered. No worries if there are a few places that you don’t LOVE, that’s what the flowers are for.
Now, you will begin creating the bow that the monogram will hang from. Start by cutting out a strip of burlap ribbon about 10 inches long. Fold both of the sides in so that they are overlapping over eachother. See picture for one side folded in. Fold the right side on top of the left.
Next, you want to fold the ribbon in half and staple the folded side to the back of the monogram. See picture for visual.
Then you will lay the bow down on the folded ribbon stapled to the monogram like so. Wrap the folded piece of burlap on top of the bow and tie a small piece of brown ribbon to cinch the bow See picture!
Cut the extra of the folded ribbon off of the back after cinching the bow with the piece of hemp string.
Here is where we are so far:
If you want to add a decorative fabric flower to the monogram…here’s how! Cut a strip of fabric about 2 inched wide and 8 inches long. Sew my hand weaving in and out of the right side of the fabric strip (see picture). Cinch the fabric so it puckers. Once you have created a full circle, cut the remainder of the fabric.